If you want to catch and keep salmon and steelhead in Washington through the years, it’s been hard to beat the Cowlitz River.
Simply put, this important tributary of the lower Columbia River in Southwest Washington often has some of the best overall river fishing in the Pacific Northwest for salmon and steelhead, sometimes beating out the Columbia itself for harvests of some of these runs.
But let’s also be fair: The Cowlitz has had its share of troubles in recent seasons, which some runs so bad the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) has shut fisheries down at times.
However, at least lately, the pendulum is swinging back in the right direction on the Cowlitz River, with returns and catches building back up to respectable, though not yet historical levels.
For generations, anglers have come from across Washington and often from nearby Oregon and elsewhere to fish the Cowlitz River’s often-abundant runs of spring and fall Chinook salmon, fall coho salmon, and summer and winter steelhead.
I’ve been among them, having lived right in Longview on the lower Cowlitz River for a few years when I covered the environment at the local newspaper. I’ve also lived just an hour to the south in Oregon for most of the rest of my life, and the Cowlitz is like a second home for some Beaver State anglers.
While we have at least a fair chance to catch one or more of these big fish here every month of the year, but this article will help you pinpoint when and where to go for the best odds.
The Cowlitz River is also famous in the Northwest for the Pacific smelt, although runs of these sardine-sized fish are even less reliable than the famously up-and-down salmon and steelhead runs.
This article will take a good look at when, where, and how to catch all of these fish, and we’ll also let you know about the Cowlitz’s decent trout fishery and the occasional monster sturgeon that sucks up your bait.
Additionally, we’ll tell you about some of the better tributary streams and reservoirs in the Cowlitz River system, which offer more modest but far less crowded options for catching salmon, steelhead, trout and more.
Cowlitz River Fishing Overview
To get you oriented, the Cowlitz River begins as a trickle off the glaciers and alpine snows of Mount Rainier and flows more than 100 miles to join the Columbia River at Longview and Kelso.
Along the way, the river’s tributaries, including the Cispus, Tilton and Toutle, pour in high-mountain snowmelt and cold spring water from other Cascade Range mountains, including Mount Adams and the craterous Mount St. Helens, the most active volcano in the contiguous 48 states.
For anglers’ purposes, the river can be divided into two distinct parts, the lower and upper rivers and tributaries.
The dividing point is Mayfield Dam in Lewis County, which during the 1960s cut off the natural migrations of salmon, steelhead and trout into the upper river system.
Tacoma Public Utilities built two hatcheries (one for salmon near Salkum, the other for trout including steelhead farther downstream at Blue Creek) to replace the natural production of salmon and steelhead lost in the upper watershed.
Those hatcheries pump out millions of young salmon, steelhead and cutthroat trout, amounting to fish factories that loaded that part of the Cowlitz with fish like no other river section in the region.
The fishing access areas below the hatcheries are extremely popular for Cowlitz River bank fishing as well as boaters. Both tend to clog these zones during peak run times because the returning fish also stack up before making a final push into hatcheries.
Some of those upper areas above the reservoirs do have salmon and steelhead, thanks to a fish recovery operation that traps selective migratory fish below Mayfield Dam and trucks them upriver, where the fish move into the Tilton River and upper Cowlitz and Cispus drainages.
While those upper streams provide angling opportunities, the river below Mayfield primarily drives the Cowlitz River’s historically high catches.
Cowlitz River Salmon Fishing
Spring Chinook Fishing
The Cowlitz River, over the years, earned a reputation as one of the best spring Chinook salmon fisheries in the Northwest, but that distinction took a beating in recent years as returns fell so far that fishing was closed entirely for a couple of seasons.
Now we see brighter days on the horizon. The river reopened to springer harvests in 2022, when more than 7,000 returned (and that was significantly better than the forecast).
The forecast for the 2023 season took a bit of a step upward, but the 2024 forecast is down again in the 4,500 neighborhood expected at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery near Salkum.
That’s still not the glory days level that some anglers will remember, when more than 20,000 spring salmon muscled up the Cowlitz to the fish hatchery.
Some would say you could practically walk across the river on the backs of salmon and probably almost literally could step across the boats. But at least it’s heading in the right direction.
When these runs are good, you can expect pretty decent fishing in April, May and June, along with some catches into July as the run is tapering off. You can also expect plenty of anglers.
The fall run of Chinook is traditionally far smaller than the spring return and has also seen some dramatic declines in recent years.
For fall salmon fishing, we recommend you focus on the more robust coho run we’ll cover below. If you want to catch fall Chinook, there are far better options nearby, including on the mainstem Columbia River.
How to Catch Cowlitz Springers
Anglers deploy a variety of tactics to catch spring Chinook salmon in the Cowlitz, although getting springers to bite isn’t always an easy feat.
Fishing with bait or lures dressed up with bait to add scent can often be the clincher when it comes to catching Chinook.
Those in drift boats and sleds will often back their lines slowly through a hole, allowing the current to work wobbling plugs such as Luhr Jensen Kwikfish, Yakima Bait FlatFish, or Brad’s Super Bait lures in the strike zone.
Some anglers will use stretchy thread to wrap their lures with a small fillet of baitfish, such as sardine, to add scent and entice a strike.
The Super Bait takes this concept a step further. The lure is built with a compartment that anglers can fill with scent or bait. Canned tuna with oil is a popular choice that leaks out a scent trail as the lure dances around in the river.
Various other tactics also put Chinook salmon in the net for boaters. Many guides and other experienced anglers have success using side-drifting set-ups or diver-and-bait set-ups (such with clusters of cured salmon roe, prawns or herring).
In the right conditions, boat anglers can hover fish over deeper holding water with a good-sized roe bait lowered right in front of the salmon.
Bank anglers also will often fish bait along the bottom, either with a drift-fishing set up that moves your bait through holding water, or using more weight and plunking it in place in one good spot and waiting for a fish to come along and hit it. Use roe, shrimp or other salmon baits.
Plenty of Chinook anglers also do well float fishing, basically drifting these baits under bobbers.
Popular Chinook baits fished from the bank include cluster salmon eggs and sand or coon shrimp.
Casting spinners, spoons or plugs will sometimes entice more aggressive Chinook to strike.
Cowlitz River Coho Fishing
When it comes to fall fishing on the Cowlitz River system, coho salmon are really the main event.
At this update, coho salmon runs have been faring far better than their fall Chinook cousins.
Runs of silvers have been worthwhile the past few years, though we’re not (yet?) talking about the 20,000-coho seasons that anglers were enjoying during the last coho boom a decade or so ago.
While the occasional coho will show up in steelhead anglers’ catches in the late summer, figure on the best numbers of mint-bright silvers beginning when the rains kick in around late September.
Most years, the Cowlitz coho run strongly peaks in October, with good catches possible into November before winter steelhead steal the show.
While anglers catch the highest numbers and brightest fish below Mayfield Dam, WDFW does move some fish into the upper river.
If you like to fish smaller water, there are some decent coho fisheries both in the upper Cowlitz River itself above Cowlitz Falls Dam and up in the Tilton River above Mayfield Lake. The Cispus River can get a fair coho run as well, especially in big run years.
I’ve been in these upriver areas for the coho run, and while the salmon are usually a bit darker than those you’ll hook below Mayfield, they are still full of fight.
How to Catch Cowlitz Coho
Coho will strike similar lures and baits as Chinook, although many anglers will downsize their presentations.
While coho can be frustratingly lockjawed about biting in freshwater, they have their moments, especially in the Cowlitz where catch rates can be far better than many tributaries.
When coho are aggressive, they also can be tempted with a casting spinner like a larger Blue Fox, a flashy spoon, a wobbling lure, or a maribou or twitching jig. Fly anglers will occasionally tie into them as well.
Besides adults, anglers catch a good number of jack salmon in the Cowlitz River. Some years are positively teeming with them. These trout-sized males return a year early and can be more aggressive … and delicious.
Cowlitz River Steelhead Fishing
At last check of the run data (which lags a couple of years), the Cowlitz was producing pretty good numbers of steelhead, though like salmon, also not at the same levels anglers experienced nearly a decade ago.
Anglers harvested nearly 4,800 summer fish and over 7,600 winter steelhead a year at our last check. Some years, the catch numbers for each seasonal run can flip or come out closer to even.
The Cowlitz Trout Hatchery tends to plant large numbers of summer and winter steelhead smolts, often to the tune of a half million or more of each run.
The reach below the hatchery deadline is the busiest steelhead fishery on the Cowlitz and, honestly, one of the most crowded places to fish for these giant sea-run rainbows just about anywhere.
Explore public access spots lower in the river if, like me, you’re willing to trade lower concentrations of fish to escape elbow-to-elbow conditions.
Cowlitz Summer Steelhead
Summer steelhead are a particular favorite due to their numbers, their fight, and their habit of showing up when the weather is ideal. (Having lived in the rainy Pacific Northwest for many decades now, I particularly enjoy our perfect summers!)
These summer runs actually start appearing in the Cowlitz River in the spring, overlapping with the spring Chinook salmon run. However, fishing for summer steelhead peaks a bit later than springers.
Expect summer steelhead fishing on the Cowlitz to really start catching fire in the late spring and early summer.
If you want to plan the very best time to fish the Cowlitz for summer steelhead, usually you can’t go too wrong by fishing it during the second half of June and clear into July. That is when the Cowlitz is usually on fire, with either June or July likely to end up producing the most catches.
August can also be hot for fishing, but the pace of harvests tends to fall off as Labor Day and early fall come on.
Of course, in August and September, many of these same anglers, including many of the guides, head to the coast for fall salmon fishing. Buoy 10 at the mouth of the Columbia River starts rocking for salmon in August, and the mainstem Columbia usually pops for fall Chinook in September.
That angler exodus also will tend to lower harvests on the Cowlitz even if the fishing remains pretty good for those who stick it out.
The Cowlitz River around the hatchery at Blue Creek (south of Ethel) is notoriously busy with anglers, especially during peak steelhead fishing.
If you’d rather fish in quieter water, even if that means fewer fish, we recommend either exploring the main river farther downstream or giving the South Fork Toutle River a try.
This Lower Cowlitz tributary, which joins the North Fork near the rural Cowlitz County community of Toutle (east of Silver Lake), is planted with a modest number of smolts.
The South Fork Toutle can be worthwhile during good run years, especially if you like to fish in smaller and less-crowded waters.
There will be fewer steelhead in that part of the watershed than on the mainstem up into Lewis County, but there will also be fewer anglers. This stream tends to peak a bit later, with your best odds likely in August and September.
Cowlitz Winter Steelhead
Like the summer run, the winter run of steelhead in the Cowlitz River stretches out across many months, but there is a well-defined peak season with this fishery.
While the Cowlitz will get some early winter steelhead in the late fall to early winter months, like many coastal streams, it really shines later on.
In typical years, this run might start to build in January, and some years may be respectable in February, but March is the true star of the winter steelhead fishing calendar on the Cowlitz River.
As we told you with regard to late June and into July for the summer run, March is usually the clear winner when it comes to winter steelhead catches. It’s reasonable to expect about half (or more) of all winter steelhead tagged on the Cowlitz to come to the net in that one month, although late February and early April can also be worth your attention here.
April is likely to still produce a few as anglers begin to shift to spring Chinook fishing.
How to Catch Steelhead
Boaters will pull small plugs slowly down likely holding water or side-drift with eggs and shrimp to put their offerings right in the fish’s face.
Bank anglers or those casting from boats will drift smaller egg clusters or shrimp than they might for Chinook.
Casting spinners and spoons is a great tactic, as is fishing a jig or bait below a bobber.
In smaller streams like the South Toutle, and even at times when bigger rivers like the Cowlitz drop and clear, I like to use stealth tactics.
Approach likely holding water carefully, wearing duller clothing colors, and casting smaller baits and lures, including spinners, spoons, jigs, and streamer flies in darker colors.
Cowlitz River Trout Fishing
Honestly, the Cowlitz isn’t known as Washington’s best trout stream, but it can be surprisingly good if you know when and where to look.
First of all, the Cowlitz Trout Hatchery releases many thousands of young sea-run cutthroat into the river each year.
Sea runs (a.k.a. harvest trout) act like their cousins, the steelhead, migrating down the Cowlitz and Columbia rivers into the estuary and nearby ocean. They feed on shrimp, small fish and other forage, growing into fat trout weighing 1 to 3 pounds before returning to the river.
Look for sea runs to overlap with the tail end of the summer steelhead run through the fall salmon run. Anglers might even catch a mixed bag of salmon, steelhead and sea-run cutts.
Cutthroat trout are often aggressive, biting the same baits and lures that salmon and steelhead strike. If you target them specifically, though, downsize your lures, baits and gear for trout.
That said, the bite can also go the other way, and you might hook a full-size steelhead or salmon while trying for sea runs. So it might be wise to avoid purely ultralight tackle in favor of a mid-sized trout set-up.
The Cowlitz and especially its tributaries also have modest populations of native resident cutthroat trout that don’t go to the ocean.
These fish can be fun to catch and are a particular favorite among fly anglers who like to hike the streams away from crowds.
Hatchery rainbow trout are generously stocked in Mayfield Lake and Lake Scanewa, operated largely as put-and-take fisheries.
The giant Riffe Lake between those reservoirs is better known for landlocked coho salmon and smallmouth bass, but it was planted with excess triploid rainbow trout a few years ago, providing a likely temporary fishery for some large trout.
Cowlitz River Smelt Dipping
Pacific smelt, also known as eulachon, make annual runs into the Columbia River and some tributaries, most notably the Cowlitz River.
However, smelt runs are highly cyclical and dipping them is only permitted under special rules enacted when large numbers of these sardine-sized fish come back.
During my time living in Longview, I witnessed a massive smelt run. I have to say, it’s a sight to behold. People line the banks with long-handled nets, hoping to scoop up a bucketful of these oily fish.
Unfortunately, smelt are not just mildly cyclical but tend to come in massive booms and then crater into equally deep busts. The runs often arrive in February or early March but can push later into March when the water is colder than normal.
The WDFW will typically announce limited dipping seasons for smelt, setting off a gold rush mentality as folks gather up their long-handled nets and 5-gallon buckets and head to their favorite riverbank location.
Some smelt dippers cook and eat them as you would herring and sardines, while others save them for sturgeon bait.
Sturgeon Fishing
Speaking of sturgeon bait, white sturgeon from the Columbia River will at times swim up into the Cowlitz River.
These fish can reach 10 feet or more, yet reports of sturgeon clear upriver into the Castle Rock area are somewhat common.
That said, you are not legally allowed to target sturgeon in the Cowlitz River, although they may occasionally bite bait such as shrimp or salmon roe intended for salmon or other game fish.
Sturgeon fishing is allowed in the Columbia River, though on a mostly catch-and-release basis with some limited harvest opportunities.
Planning Your Trip
Where is the Cowlitz River?
The Cowlitz runs primarily through Lewis and Cowlitz counties in Southwest Washington.
The most popular section in the Toledo area is about 30 minutes southeast of Chehalis via Interstate 5 and U.S. 12. Figure a bit over an hour taking I-5 from either Tacoma or Portland.
West of I-5, the lower river flows through Castle Rock, Kelso and Longview.
Bank and Boat Access
Some of the more popular ramps are located at the Tacoma Barrier Dam Boat Launch at the Cowlitz Salmon Hatchery just south of the tiny community of Salkum, and WDFW’s Blue Creek Boat Ramp at the Trout Hatchery just south of the equally small Ethel. Reach either from U.S. 12.
Additional launches (or take-outs for the end of your drift) are located at Massey Bar, a couple in Toledo, and one on Mandy Road at the I-5 bridge.
If you fish below the interstate, look for spots to launch and take out at Olequa Creek near Vader, Al Helenberg launch in Castle Rock, and in the extreme lower river at Gearhart Gardens Park in Longview.
Bank fishing is available at the hatcheries as well as near other boat launches. You’ll find public parks along the river in Toledo, Castle Rock, Kelso and Longview.
Bridge crossings and several roads running along the banks can offer some additional public access, but be sure not to cross private property.
Camping and Accommodations
There are plenty of motels and other accommodations in the I-5 corridor from Centralia to Longview.
If you’d rather camp, try Ike Kinswa State Park at Mayfield Lake, just east of the hatcheries; Lewis & Clark State Park, just north of Toledo; or Seaquest State Park on Silver Lake, a great bass and panfish lake east of Castle Rock.
A couple of privately operated camping options include Tacoma Power’s Mayfield Lake Park or the Mayfield Lake Resort & Marina.
With any of these overnight spots, check ahead for availability.
Find more fishing spots in Lewis County
Find more fishing spots in Cowlitz County
Washington Resources
WDFW Fishing and Stocking Reports
WDFW Fishing Regulations
National Weather Service forecasts